TRAVEL LOG : PART I of ?
Aug. 9th, 2008 04:26 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
katernaterI kept a hand-written journal while Todd and I were in Europe for two weeks. What follows is my transcribed notes and thoughts for each port of call, as well as photographic evidence that Todd and I actually, uh, have a relationship. If you're interested in how Todd popped the question, this is the entry to read. There will, of course, be more to follow.
TRAVEL LOG - DAY 1 : LONDON, ENGLAND
When Todd and I arrived at the airport we got our boarding passes through the electronic check-in process but, uh, forgot the very important task of actually checking our bags. We got to the X-ray machine and had to turn around (me in bare feet, holding my Converse in one hand) and do things in the proper order.
On the plane over, we watched Be Kind, Rewind and tried, unsuccessfully, to get more than two hours of sleep. We landed at Heathrow at 7:40 in the morning to greet a sparkling day. Heathrow is massive, but Todd and I agreed that the amenities for arriving passengers weren't that fantastic (we ended up holed up in a little cafe in the Arrivals Hall, where we had a couple of danishes and a copy of the Daily Mail with pre-gummed pages). We de-planed and went through immigration processing (our gatekeeper -- the first Briton we were to encounter -- had a tight, formal mouth and a ridge of graying hair that he had styled into a fauxhawk) and went to collect our baggage from the carousel. Todd's came around. Mine did not. We went to the United desk and were told that my bag had been held over ("For a number of reasons. I think. Maybe.") and that they would deliver it to our hotel at seven o'clock that evening.
We queued through to the Arrivals Hall to meet our driver (he was supposed to pick us up at the airport and transfer us to our hotel for fifty pounds) and waited. And waited. It turns out that he'd been there at 7:40 -- a full hour before he was supposed to pick us up. He'd waited and, when we didn't show, he'd left. After Todd made a phone call, we were told that another driver was being sent. Not exactly an auspicious beginning to our trip. After about forty minutes, a slick Italian in a less sleek suit plucked Todd and me away from the terminal. He didn't have a sign with our name on it, and he didn't have identification from the hotel. He was, however, able to identify us by the name of our hotel, The Windermere. Still, I spent the entire cab ride terrified that this guy was going to chop Todd and me up and serve us in a nice matzo soup. Did I mention that Britons drive like maniacs? They invent the rules of "come" and "go" and speed up going into turns, like they're gunning after the pace car at a stock race
We made it to our hotel, which was situated on the corner of a very pleasant street, amidst a row of very neat white-faced flats. The inside was cozy, cramped, and filled wall-to-wall with old furniture and an electric blue patterned carpet.
The young woman behind the desk told us that our room wasn't ready yet. We decided to go out and see London on our own, anyway.
We left the hotel and turned toward Buckingham Road. London is the most beautiful city I have ever seen. Streets are crammed with people and cars; sidewalks are studded with the facades of pubs, shops, offices and bus terminals. Todd and I adapted quickly to the manner of the streets and soon we were threading in and out of traffic like old Londoners.
Our first stop was Buckingham Palace, where we saw the changing of the guard. There was a fairly large queue amassed at the gates, so we moved onto the road behind the palace and had a short lie-down in Green Park (which is beautifully kept and well deserving of its name.)
We wanted to see Hyde Park, so we set out in search of it and ran into Piccadilly Circus instead.
We re-navigated and decided to find Trafalgar next. We were tired, hot, sweaty, hungry and I hadn't slept in nearly thirty hours. I wasn't exactly a ray of sunshine at this point. Still, when we approached Trafalgar Square, I didn't have to fight to muster some enthusiasm.
We climbed onto the base of Nelson's Column and sat with our backs to the warm stone. A lion sat, couchant, on either side of us. The whole of central London was spread out in front of us: spraying fountains, double-decker buses, milling crowds. It was at this point that I finally allowed myself to take a breath and to actually absorb the reality of where I was and what I was doing. Todd, beside me, said that there was only one thing that could make this moment even better. Then he kissed me. I smiled and said, "You're right, much better." I glanced away for a split second and when I turned around, Todd was holding an open ring box. He finished his sentence: "-- If you'll marry me."
I'm sure I gaped. I know I made a number of very unpretty faces. I remember saying "YES!" Yes, of course!" and kissing him, then shouting, "I JUST GOT ENGAGED!" to the crowd at thee base of the monument. Todd slid the ring on to my finger and we kissed again.
We got down off the monument and went to see some old art at the Portrait Gallery, but I don't really remember much of it (aside from a painting of Ziggy Stardust holding a strange man/woman in his arms like a glam version of the Pieta), because, oh my god, I just got engaged!
We went to the Houses of Parliament and then to the Thames, which is just as dirty as everyone says it is.
We walked back toward our hotel, freshened up a bit, and then had fish and chips at a place called The Shakespeare. After dinner, we went down to Hyde Park (we finally found it) and laid down in the grass to watch the evening go by. We also watched stunt skaters, and saw one man shaving another man's head. Welcome to London. We had two pints of Strongbow Cider each at The King's Arms, then returned to our hotel to sleep for the first time in 48 hours.
TRAVEL LOG - DAY 2 : LONDON, ENGLAND TO SOUTHAMPTON, ENGLAND
We got up at 9:30, showered, dressed, and watched a bit of bad British daytime talkshow drama. We went down to a pastry shop and had a Cornish pastry each, which tasted wonderful when it was hot (and a bit like cardboard when it wasn't.) Back at the hotel, we collected our bags (mine did arrive the night before) and checked out. Our two block walk took us past Cambridge and Hugh streets. This was amusing to me and, like, nobody else.
The Victoria Coach Station is big, loud, and full of one-footed pigeons. Todd and I arrived, checked our luggage (I made sure that I saw mine being physically lifted onto the truck) and sat around until the bus boarded. This was the first time that I used the bathroom and got charged to do it (20p). We listened to our iPods on the ride to Southampton and watched the English countryside unfold around us. I will miss London very much. As we left, I thought I recognized the steps outside of Hugh Laurie's family's flat. Again, I might have been the only one amused by this. Todd and I agreed that we were comfortable in London and that we'd taken to it like ducks to water. We agreed to come back for a much longer time.
Arrived at Southampton at about 2 pm. We were whisked off the bus and through security in about 10 minutes. We mounted the gangplank and crossed on board one of the most impressive cruise ships I've ever clapped my eyes on. The reception hall was lovely and for a while we were entertained by a 4-piece string orchestra. We found our stateroom (bigger than our digs in London, thank god) and explored the ship until it departed at 5:30.
Dinner was at 8:30. We were seated with two other couples, both British, and both very much older than Todd and me. They were surprised (and pleased, we thought) to find out that we were 1. American and, 2. engaged. Dessert and coffee were a welcome treat. We lounged until midnight or so and then went down to the midnight buffet (a habit we'd repeat more than once on this trip) and did a bit more exploring. We stole chocolate-dipped strawberries from an abandoned tray outside of a stateroom.
TRAVEL LOG - DAY 3 : ST. PETER PORT
We went to bed at three o'clock in the morning and only woke after housekeeping knocked to deliver fresh linens. We stirred, showered, and disembarked onto the tender boat that would take us to the island. A thick fog had rolled in during the morning and it obscured the better part of our view for a while. St. Peter Port is a picturesque harbor town with stacked rowhouses and shops cut into the side of a granite hill; a hundred thousand boats are moored in the bay.
Todd and I walked around the town, saw a children's puppet show, and had lunch at a pub called the Thomas De La Rue. Todd tried a cider that one of our British tablemates had recommended the night before. We lamented the fact that a British pub could have a jukebox that only played "Eye Of The Tiger" and "Like A Prayer".
Todd and I got back to the boat and had a lie-down before dinner. This night was a formal night, which meant that everyone had to get dressed up in their best regalia and pretend that it wasn't one big cruising popularity contest. Our tablemates bought us a bottle of champagne to celebrate our engagement! After dinner, we changed into some warmer (more comfortable) clothes and went up to the top deck to watch Juno on the big movie screen under the stars.
Tomorrow - Cork!
TRAVEL LOG - DAY 1 : LONDON, ENGLAND
When Todd and I arrived at the airport we got our boarding passes through the electronic check-in process but, uh, forgot the very important task of actually checking our bags. We got to the X-ray machine and had to turn around (me in bare feet, holding my Converse in one hand) and do things in the proper order.
On the plane over, we watched Be Kind, Rewind and tried, unsuccessfully, to get more than two hours of sleep. We landed at Heathrow at 7:40 in the morning to greet a sparkling day. Heathrow is massive, but Todd and I agreed that the amenities for arriving passengers weren't that fantastic (we ended up holed up in a little cafe in the Arrivals Hall, where we had a couple of danishes and a copy of the Daily Mail with pre-gummed pages). We de-planed and went through immigration processing (our gatekeeper -- the first Briton we were to encounter -- had a tight, formal mouth and a ridge of graying hair that he had styled into a fauxhawk) and went to collect our baggage from the carousel. Todd's came around. Mine did not. We went to the United desk and were told that my bag had been held over ("For a number of reasons. I think. Maybe.") and that they would deliver it to our hotel at seven o'clock that evening.
We queued through to the Arrivals Hall to meet our driver (he was supposed to pick us up at the airport and transfer us to our hotel for fifty pounds) and waited. And waited. It turns out that he'd been there at 7:40 -- a full hour before he was supposed to pick us up. He'd waited and, when we didn't show, he'd left. After Todd made a phone call, we were told that another driver was being sent. Not exactly an auspicious beginning to our trip. After about forty minutes, a slick Italian in a less sleek suit plucked Todd and me away from the terminal. He didn't have a sign with our name on it, and he didn't have identification from the hotel. He was, however, able to identify us by the name of our hotel, The Windermere. Still, I spent the entire cab ride terrified that this guy was going to chop Todd and me up and serve us in a nice matzo soup. Did I mention that Britons drive like maniacs? They invent the rules of "come" and "go" and speed up going into turns, like they're gunning after the pace car at a stock race
We made it to our hotel, which was situated on the corner of a very pleasant street, amidst a row of very neat white-faced flats. The inside was cozy, cramped, and filled wall-to-wall with old furniture and an electric blue patterned carpet.
The young woman behind the desk told us that our room wasn't ready yet. We decided to go out and see London on our own, anyway.
We left the hotel and turned toward Buckingham Road. London is the most beautiful city I have ever seen. Streets are crammed with people and cars; sidewalks are studded with the facades of pubs, shops, offices and bus terminals. Todd and I adapted quickly to the manner of the streets and soon we were threading in and out of traffic like old Londoners.
Our first stop was Buckingham Palace, where we saw the changing of the guard. There was a fairly large queue amassed at the gates, so we moved onto the road behind the palace and had a short lie-down in Green Park (which is beautifully kept and well deserving of its name.)
We wanted to see Hyde Park, so we set out in search of it and ran into Piccadilly Circus instead.
We re-navigated and decided to find Trafalgar next. We were tired, hot, sweaty, hungry and I hadn't slept in nearly thirty hours. I wasn't exactly a ray of sunshine at this point. Still, when we approached Trafalgar Square, I didn't have to fight to muster some enthusiasm.
We climbed onto the base of Nelson's Column and sat with our backs to the warm stone. A lion sat, couchant, on either side of us. The whole of central London was spread out in front of us: spraying fountains, double-decker buses, milling crowds. It was at this point that I finally allowed myself to take a breath and to actually absorb the reality of where I was and what I was doing. Todd, beside me, said that there was only one thing that could make this moment even better. Then he kissed me. I smiled and said, "You're right, much better." I glanced away for a split second and when I turned around, Todd was holding an open ring box. He finished his sentence: "-- If you'll marry me."
I'm sure I gaped. I know I made a number of very unpretty faces. I remember saying "YES!" Yes, of course!" and kissing him, then shouting, "I JUST GOT ENGAGED!" to the crowd at thee base of the monument. Todd slid the ring on to my finger and we kissed again.
We got down off the monument and went to see some old art at the Portrait Gallery, but I don't really remember much of it (aside from a painting of Ziggy Stardust holding a strange man/woman in his arms like a glam version of the Pieta), because, oh my god, I just got engaged!
We went to the Houses of Parliament and then to the Thames, which is just as dirty as everyone says it is.
We walked back toward our hotel, freshened up a bit, and then had fish and chips at a place called The Shakespeare. After dinner, we went down to Hyde Park (we finally found it) and laid down in the grass to watch the evening go by. We also watched stunt skaters, and saw one man shaving another man's head. Welcome to London. We had two pints of Strongbow Cider each at The King's Arms, then returned to our hotel to sleep for the first time in 48 hours.
TRAVEL LOG - DAY 2 : LONDON, ENGLAND TO SOUTHAMPTON, ENGLAND
We got up at 9:30, showered, dressed, and watched a bit of bad British daytime talkshow drama. We went down to a pastry shop and had a Cornish pastry each, which tasted wonderful when it was hot (and a bit like cardboard when it wasn't.) Back at the hotel, we collected our bags (mine did arrive the night before) and checked out. Our two block walk took us past Cambridge and Hugh streets. This was amusing to me and, like, nobody else.
The Victoria Coach Station is big, loud, and full of one-footed pigeons. Todd and I arrived, checked our luggage (I made sure that I saw mine being physically lifted onto the truck) and sat around until the bus boarded. This was the first time that I used the bathroom and got charged to do it (20p). We listened to our iPods on the ride to Southampton and watched the English countryside unfold around us. I will miss London very much. As we left, I thought I recognized the steps outside of Hugh Laurie's family's flat. Again, I might have been the only one amused by this. Todd and I agreed that we were comfortable in London and that we'd taken to it like ducks to water. We agreed to come back for a much longer time.
Arrived at Southampton at about 2 pm. We were whisked off the bus and through security in about 10 minutes. We mounted the gangplank and crossed on board one of the most impressive cruise ships I've ever clapped my eyes on. The reception hall was lovely and for a while we were entertained by a 4-piece string orchestra. We found our stateroom (bigger than our digs in London, thank god) and explored the ship until it departed at 5:30.
Dinner was at 8:30. We were seated with two other couples, both British, and both very much older than Todd and me. They were surprised (and pleased, we thought) to find out that we were 1. American and, 2. engaged. Dessert and coffee were a welcome treat. We lounged until midnight or so and then went down to the midnight buffet (a habit we'd repeat more than once on this trip) and did a bit more exploring. We stole chocolate-dipped strawberries from an abandoned tray outside of a stateroom.
TRAVEL LOG - DAY 3 : ST. PETER PORT
We went to bed at three o'clock in the morning and only woke after housekeeping knocked to deliver fresh linens. We stirred, showered, and disembarked onto the tender boat that would take us to the island. A thick fog had rolled in during the morning and it obscured the better part of our view for a while. St. Peter Port is a picturesque harbor town with stacked rowhouses and shops cut into the side of a granite hill; a hundred thousand boats are moored in the bay.
Todd and I walked around the town, saw a children's puppet show, and had lunch at a pub called the Thomas De La Rue. Todd tried a cider that one of our British tablemates had recommended the night before. We lamented the fact that a British pub could have a jukebox that only played "Eye Of The Tiger" and "Like A Prayer".
Todd and I got back to the boat and had a lie-down before dinner. This night was a formal night, which meant that everyone had to get dressed up in their best regalia and pretend that it wasn't one big cruising popularity contest. Our tablemates bought us a bottle of champagne to celebrate our engagement! After dinner, we changed into some warmer (more comfortable) clothes and went up to the top deck to watch Juno on the big movie screen under the stars.
Tomorrow - Cork!
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no subject
Date: 2008-08-09 08:34 am (UTC)That is such a beautiful and perfect start to your trip. You look gorgeous, you're absolutely glowing, love, and I can't even put into words how happy I am for you. That is so romantic!
My favorite picture is the one of you looking out at Trafalgar. I love the angle. It's just this perfect, artistic shot, and you're looking out at a place that means so much to you - now for more than one reason.
no subject
Date: 2008-08-09 09:12 am (UTC)YOU'RE ENGAGED!!!!! WHEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!
no subject
Date: 2008-08-09 01:49 pm (UTC)I wants more, precious. :) Can't WAIT to see what you thought of Ireland!
no subject
Date: 2008-08-09 02:39 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-08-09 03:54 pm (UTC)Very cool! Lovely photos! More - now! =)
no subject
Date: 2008-08-09 10:42 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-08-13 05:25 am (UTC)Don't you love long haul? I love long haul. Love it to death.
We landed at Heathrow at 7:40 in the morning
Every time I've landed at Heathrow it's been at some time between 6 and 7.30 am. I'm not sure why they keep it open the rest of the time.
my bag had been held over
Bummer! I'm lucky enough to have great bag-fu - I've never had a bag as much as delayed, even in countries which are notorious for it. I suppose that means other people have to keep up the bag-problem statistics - thanks for doing your part.
fifty pounds
Ouch!
Not exactly an auspicious beginning to our trip.
I'm allowed to say this because it's my birthplace: British service is appalling. Appalling. It's best to assume everything will go wrong and then you're more mentally equipped to take it on.
He didn't have a sign with our name on it, and he didn't have identification from the hotel.
Oh, right, you're American! Therefore expecting good service! Good luck with that.
Did I mention that Britons drive like maniacs?
You haven't reported on the Paris bit yet, but did you still think so after seeing Parisian drivers?
The inside was cozy, cramped
That's not a surprise. I've been in London hotels where there was literally nowhere to stand after you'd put the luggage down.
went to see some old art at the Portrait Gallery
One of my favourites, and hardly ever crowded especially compared to the National next door. But a totally romantic proposal is a seriously hard act to follow. I'm surprised you had room in your brain to even notice where you were for the rest of the trip.
We agreed to come back for a much longer time.
Yay! I thought you might:).
We were seated with two other couples, both British, and both very much older than Todd and me.
What did you think of the cruise experience overall? I've never done one, but from hearsay I was a bit worried you and Todd would be the only people under sixty for fifty nautical miles.